Kalsa, Palermo

Sicily (Palermo & Taormina), Italy

A once-derelict Arab-Norman quarter now filled with galleries, wine bars, and restored palazzi along the waterfront.

Places in Kalsa, Palermo

Antica Focacceria San Francesco A 19th-century institution serving Palermo's classic street food, from panelle to pani ca meusa.

Best time to visit: April to June and September to October bring warm days without the July-August crowds and heat. Late spring is best for hiking Etna's lower slopes.
Getting around: Palermo's historic centre is walkable but chaotic; taxis or the tram help for longer hops. Taormina's town is pedestrian and connected to the Mazzaro beach area by cable car. A rental car is useful for exploring Etna and the wider island.
Currency: Euro (EUR)
Language: Italian; Sicilian is widely spoken. English is common in tourism.
Timezone: CET (UTC+1, UTC+2 in summer)
Current trends: A wave of design-led boutique hotels in restored Palermo palazzi is drawing a younger crowd to the capital, while Taormina's Corso Umberto has seen a new generation of natural wine bars open alongside its granita counters.

Ballarò Market district, Palermo — The city's oldest and loudest street market, a dense grid of food stalls, butchers, and street food vendors.
Corso Umberto, Taormina — Taormina's pedestrian spine, a kilometre of boutiques, cafes, and gelato shops split by Piazza IX Aprile.