Gemmayzeh

Beirut, Lebanon

A charming quarter of Ottoman staircases, French-mandate buildings, cafés and bars, adjoining Mar Mikhael. Atmospheric and lively.

Places in Gemmayzeh

Le Chef A humble, beloved diner serving daily-changing Lebanese home dishes to a devoted local crowd for generations. Cheap, cheerful and authentic.
Gemmayzeh café-bars The quarter's café-bars are good from morning coffee to evening drinks, buzzing with a creative crowd. Easy all-day spots.
Anise / natural-wine bars A growing run of wine bars showcases Lebanon's excellent wines from the Bekaa Valley and natural producers. A sophisticated Beirut drink.

Best time to visit: April to June and September to November for warm, comfortable weather and the sea still swimmable. Summer is hot and buzzing; winter is mild and wet. Check current travel advisories before planning.
Getting around: Shared taxis (service), private taxis and the Bolt app are the way around; agree fares. The city is walkable in patches (the Corniche, Gemmayzeh) but hilly and traffic-choked. A driver helps for the wineries and mountains beyond.
Currency: Lebanese Pound (ل.ل); USD widely used
Language: Arabic. French and English are widely spoken.
Timezone: EET (UTC+2, UTC+3 in summer)
Current trends: A resilient, creative dining and bar scene rebuilding in Mar Mikhael and Gemmayzeh after the 2020 blast; modern-Lebanese cooking reclaiming tradition; a strong natural-wine and Lebanese-wine culture; and rooftop bars reviving the city's famous nightlife.

Mar Mikhael — The city's creative hotspot, a street of bars, restaurants, galleries and boutiques that anchors Beirut's nightlife, rebuilding with defiant energy after the blast. Where the city comes alive.
Hamra — The historic intellectual and commercial heart on the west side, of bookshops, cafés, universities and old cinemas. Beirut's bohemian, cosmopolitan side.
Downtown & the Corniche — The rebuilt central district around the clock tower and Roman baths, and the seafront Corniche promenade where all Beirut walks. The city's civic and social spine.
Achrafieh — An elegant hilltop district of old mansions, smart restaurants and the Sursock Museum. Beirut at its most gracious.